Crank: we start building by building the main/from the crank rod assembly. This is made of aluminum sheet. Cut two poles, one main pole ( This is basically a slave stick, but there is a bigger circle at one end of it) And a partition. The partition and circle will form a central hub for the crank arrangement. There is a 12mm hole in the middle of each part, and six smaller holes are drilled around them, and their spacing is equal to take out the bolts supporting the rod and the entire assembly. Separate the plate by having an extra nut on the bolt between the two plates. The connecting crank shaft is a bit small because the crank has to be bent out of 4mm soft steel bars, but it has to be bent in case the crank rod assembly has been installed. You can bend one side first, and then slide the crank rod assembly into the shaft. By using a steel box- The segmented fixture, we are able to bend the other half of the crank and align it. The stroke on the piston is 50mm, so the crank must be offset by 25mm. Valve: Two- Part of the flap valve is designed to fit the cap that we use as a piping connection system. Since we need all the valves to be the same, we have laser cut from 3mm acrylic and 0. 5mm styrene. We are from pvc t- To make sure we cut the adapter pieces with the correct inner diameter with laser. The valve works by installing two hinge semi-circular baffles on the diameter of the pipe. The original valve is not replaced by two plating due to failure ( Share the same hinge hole)would overlap. This is solved by placing a strip between them and preventing them from overlapping. Piston: the piston is processed with an aluminum rod, just the right size of our cylinder. They put a groove 5mm from the front end to remove the rubber Ring that seals the piston. In addition to this, they have a large hole at the other end to take the piston rod and the guidpin Pin (wrist pin). These are processed by placing a large machine. The ish part of the rod in the lathe, facing the closing end, drilling holes for the piston rod, and then cutting O-using the cutting tool- The ring groove, then the finished piston is finally separated from the section of the rod. This is done three times to produce the desired Piston Head. The piston heads were taken to a column drill where the holes of the 4mm gudgeon pin were marked and drilled. Cylinder: The clear plastic we use for the cylinder has been cleaned up so we can\'t tell you where to get it. You can replace it with an acrylic tube. It happened that the pipe we used was perfect for pvc t- So we use pipe cement to stick them on top and provide a seal. Mounting plate: Cut from Layer 12mm. The center is marked to allow the full 50mm stroke of the piston plus the length of the piston rod. Six holes marked T- The joint on the cylinder assembly will pass through the substrate. These are all cut with forstner bit, although the flat bit works as well. In order to keep the crankshaft and support the gearbox, a circular laying layer was also cut. This piece and the substrate are marked as having 6 holes cut in which there are long bolts passing through with PVC pipe gaskets. Using thinner pipes can be an idea because it turns out that the crank system cut them off so lightly ( This is easy to fix by filing a slightly smaller place for the piston). It is important to note that the head of the Bolt is on the lower side of the base plate, because later the addition of the gearbox will make them inaccessible, which will make it impossible for the rig to convert to a 2-cylinder operation. Three guide rails were made with brackets to keep the cylinder straight. The bracket is an aluminum strip screwed on the guide rail, which is simply bolted to the base plate for disassembly. Hose: these are just simple hose parts that are hot stuck in the holes at the top of the bottle. Cut the hole first, then insert the hose, then add the hot glue. Gearbox: the gearbox initially provides a torque of 10 m according to the motor torque rating in a ratio of 100:1 ( Since the device was not running fast enough, it was changed later). These gears were designed in a gear generation program and ported to Adobe Illustrator, where we also created patterns for each gearbox layer. We laser cut the pattern and layer the gears so they can get a higher torque than a layer of 3mm acrylic fiber. In order to attach them to the soft steel shaft of 4mm, we drilled a 1. There are 5mm holes on the shaft and put a pin on it and the gear, which allows them to withstand high torque. The motor gear is simply pushed to the motor shaft. The motor is screwed on the gearbox with two screws and the whole machine is bonded together with plastic welding or acetone. Remember not to let your finger get stuck with the gear system because the torque of 10 m is really painful. Flywheel wheel: as an afterthought, we added a flywheel wheel to the pump to smooth the reciprocating movement and improve efficiency. This is achieved by taking a round plywood, marking six points on the edge, drilling large holes in the middle, and drilling small holes all the way. Large (15mm thick) Stainless steel bullets from the holes that are widely tied to the bolts. This will give the flywheel great inertia and smooth movement of the pump. Be careful with these freewheels, because if the machine is blocked or suddenly stops, storing a lot of energy in the rotation can go wrong. Don\'t try to stop the flywheel with your hand in any case. One of our team members tried this and believe us it\'s not an interesting thing. We really enjoyed building this pump and we hope you enjoyed the tutorial that Dolphin Dynamics brought to you. Unfortunately, we did not win the game. The first one is an elephant with quite good engineering (rope) The second time I went to another lovely pump, the diaphragm pump. The maximum efficiency of the winning pump is about 12%, we only have 6-7%. This is enough for us to win the third place in the game and also to win further praise for bold design. Some other pumps include another one (single) Piston pump running from meccano gearbox, another rope pump, Reciprocating valve pump. If you\'re interested, in the last two races, the elephant (rope) So far, the pump is the most efficient pump from a variety of different designs. Here you can see some of the prototypes we made before reaching the final product.
